Natural Perfumer: Aftelier

Aftelier perfumes are a rare find, like Creed, only those in the know would know about this brand. Mandy Aftelier, the perfume formulates all her perfumes from natural raw materials. Nothing synthetic, as she believes in the beautiful complexity of nature. I've read two of her books. Not only is she a perfumer, but she shares her knowledge, offering recipes fir creating your own. She is, I would say, the perfumer's perfumer. She also sells a range of natural fragrance materials, training books on perfumery, and even fragranced teas! Whether you are interested in natural perfumes or exploring perfumery, her website will be of great interest.

Bras Linked to Breat Cancer?

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The headline sounds outrageous, right? Most people will not have heard of such a thing, that wearing bras could be linked to breast cancer. There's so much hype from organizations about finding a "cure" for cancer, and yet we don't seem to find a "cause" to help prevention.

The theory that bras may be linked to causes of cancer is that there are lymph nodes that surround the breast tissue that helps to drain out the toxins that accumulate. However, wearing a bra prevents this process from functioning properly. Bras, exotically under wire and push-up bras put too much pressure. Apparently, by wearing a bra constantly, breast begin to lack in its own muscular support, depending on the bra solely for support, leading to discomfort when not wearing a bra. I used to think this was true, I believed that if I wanted to prevent sagging breasts, I better wear a bra!

After learning of this news, I decided to try going without a bra for two weeks. I have to disclose that I am not going completely bra-less, but rather wearing a camisole with a built-in elastic underneath the bust, it barely does anything for support, but it's a step down from wearing under wire bras all the time.

I've often felt weird about not wearing a bra. It's often perceived that not wearing a bra is improper. However it is found that women from less developed countries don't wear bras and don't seem to get breaat cancer at all.

So about two weeks passed since trying this, no wearing a bra thing. I didn't go completely without one on a couple occasions, but I do notice a difference. I noticed that the muscles on my upper chest is firmer, like the way it used to be when I used to go swimming often. And going without a bra is not as uncomfortable as it was in the beginning. I also noticed that on those days when wearing a bra, it was uncomfortable. How is it that only now I think bras are uncomfortable after wearing them for so long?

Maybe one's perception of comfort is really based on what level of discomfort they are prepared to tolerate? Maybe its time for a looser kind of bra design? Would you be prepared to go bra-less if you knew it prevented breast cancer? Leave me your comments!

Canadian Market Trends in Natural Beauty

While I would love to be able to say that the Canadian market is catching on to the "natural beauty" trend, I have to report that it's not happening quite as fast as anyone in the market hopes. It's still a niche market. I've been researching the different distribution channels of natural beauty products to look for a solution for my own product line, Fable Natural.

According to research by Organic Monitor, the North American market for organic beauty products is two-tired. The first being natural beauty brands that pop up under a corporate parent company with the means to produce and promote such a product line in a high-end setting, such as a department store. An example cited from this market is Care by Stella McCartney, produced by YSL Beaute. The second-tier which is the vast majority of independent natural beauty brands that are distributed through the traditional channels, such as health food stores, health spas, and some drug stores.

From empirical evidence, I would have to say that the first-tier has been a failure thus far. Conventional beauty corporations jumping onto the band wagon are not prepared for this particular market segment. Though they have all the possible means and capacity to execute a line, one could say, that the market is not ready for this conversion, just yet. From my own research, Holt Renfrew in Toronto has dipped in to the organic beauty market only to realize that it doesn't work for them, or at least not with the way that it is marketed and displayed. People who go to Holts, come for the brand names. If they want organic, they'll go to Whole Foods.

Though many health food stores carry some beauty and personal care products. It doesn't look like it's going well. I talked to one health supplement shop and he reported that it's just not a significant part of his business. He cites Whole Foods as his dominant competitor.  So even the traditional channels of distribution is hard to break into nowadays.

So I wonder, what would i take for people to demand natural and organic?

Natural Beauty Industry Event To Take Place In May

I just got the latest from Organic Monitor, about the upcoming Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in May. Looks to be a really exciting line up of events. I would be excited to attend if they grant me a press pass!

Sustainability Summit Hones in on Green Formulations and Supply Chains
London – Green formulations and sustainable supply chains are focal themes of the next edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit (www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com). Taking place in New York City on 12-14th May, the summit aims to address some of the major sustainability issues the beauty industry faces.
With many cosmetic and ingredient firms still grappling with green formulations, the summit devotes a conference session and workshop to discuss technical issues. Key papers will cover natural & organic cosmetic formulations, including paraben-free preservative systems, replacing synthetic chemicals, natural actives, and growing use of sustainable raw materials.
For the first time, the summit will bring together heads of leading natural personal care firms in a CEO Roundtable to debate key industry challenges. The CEOs of Burt’s Bees, Aubrey Organics, Weleda, and Dr. Hauschka Skincare will be part of the CEOpanel to discuss issues relating to sustainability, certification, ethical trade, and consumer
demand.
The summit opens by highlighting Pioneering Sustainability Initiatives in the beauty industry. Aveda, a leading natural personal care company, will emphasize the importance of sustainability to reduce the ecological and social footprints of beauty products. The global sustainability director of Procter & Gamble will share its game plan to meet the
challenges of the triple bottom line. The global cosmetics company recently announced its environmental sustainability vision, setting goals for specific initiatives.
Also in the opening session, Henkel will state how it has been successful in receiving the Wal-Mart Sustainability Award two years in a row. Rik Kutsch Lojenga, Executive Director of the Union for Ethical BioTrade, will highlight the growing importance of biodiversity, whilst another paper looks at how beauty companies can generate positive
impacts.
Social impacts are emphasized in the second session on Sustainable Supply Chains. The Brazilian company Beraca will discuss the role of ethical sourcing in alleviating poverty and environmental stewardship. Using shea butter as a case study, Dr. Peter Lovett from the USAID West Africa Trade Hub highlights the positive impacts sustainable sourcing can have on African growers. At the other end of the supply chain, a leading retailer shares its experiences in meeting consumer expectations for sustainable products.
John Replogle, CEO of Burt’s Bees, further elaborates on rising consumer expectations in his opening keynote on the second day of the executive summit. His paper will question whether natural & organic beauty products are meeting consumer demand for sustainable products. Other topics in the Marketing & Distribution Innovations session cover the potential of biodynamic cosmetics, sustainable packaging, retailing innovations, and opportunities in mass market channels. Future growth projections are given for the natural & organic personal care industry, whilst a leading research agency will share consumer insights. Findings on the adoption rates of natural & organic products will be given, as well as triggers and motives for purchases. With standards continuing to garner high interest, the final session gives updates on
North American natural & organic beauty standards, including NSF ANSI 305, NPA and OASIS. Precise details, as well as adoption issues, of the new USDA bio-based personal care standard will also be given. The implications of the new Safe Cosmetics Act to cosmetic and ingredient firms are also on the agenda.
The summit closes with an interactive workshop on Green Chemicals. Judi Beerling, Head of Technical Research at Organic Monitor, will discuss the formulation issues associated with replacing synthetic chemicals, such as parabens, emulsifiers and fragrances. The range of green chemical alternatives is explored, as well as their related
technical issues.
Organized by Organic Monitor, the fourth edition of this executive summit hones in on green formulations because of the growing need to develop ‘chemically-clean’ products in North America. With growing pressure for natural and conventional brands to remove potentially harmful chemicals, the summit aims to tackle some of the major technical obstacles in using sustainable / natural raw materials. Sustainable supply chains are a major focus because of the growing prominence of ethical trade and sustainable sourcing.
About the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit
The aim of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit is to encourage sustainability in the beauty industry by bringing together key stake-holders and debate major sustainability issues in a high-level forum. More information is available from
www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com 

About Organic Monitor
Organic Monitor is a specialist research, consulting & training company that focuses on the global organic & related product industries. In 2011, we are celebrating 10 years of encouraging sustainable development. Since 2001, we have been providing a range of business services to operators in high-growth ethical & sustainable industries. Our services include market research publications, business & technical consulting, summits, seminars & workshops. Visit us at www.organicmonitor.com

The Truth About Oils

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Oil has been given a bad reputation. This is mostly to blame on the beauty industry that has misled the public in their "oil-free" marketing. When customers see "oil-free", they think free from oils, must be 'cause they're bad. Actually, what they really mean is, free from mineral oil, which is known to clog pores, but not free from other oils. But now everyone thinks oils are bad, and that it is to be avoided at all costs. This is how I used to think when it came to buying cosmetics.

I had oily, acne-prone skin. All the cosmetic literature tells you to avoid oils. So I did. But it only got worse. My skin was out of control. I'd wash off all the oil with astringent toner, and an hour later, my skin would go back to being greasy. What was happening? Well, the truth is, skin needs oil just as much as it need water. If you don't give it any oil, or worse, strip away all it oil, the skin will produce more on its own. If you treat oily skin with natural oil, it will send the message to stop producing so much oil, and the skin will return to a natural balance.

Natural plant oils are also a cure for clogged pores. The oils help to dissolve the oil trapped in the pores, helping to release blackheads, dead skin cells and impurities, so that it can be flushed out. Left untreated, it can cause serious acne infections. Deep cleansing the skin with oil is the safest method, as extraction and exfoliation can cause damage to the delicate epidermis. I've outlined my own method for deep cleansing with oil here, but I was looking for other sources to back me up on this and found this article for OCM, "Oil Cleansing Method". I do recommend OCM, but it is not necessary to follow its recipe precisely. I prefer other oils that are more nourishing, such as jojoba, rosehip seed, camellia seed, sweet almond, or apricot kernel. These oils are also known as carrier oils that can be found where essential aromatherapy oils are sold. Most plant based oils are ok, but there are some to avoid, so do some research before using less common oils such as, sesame oil. Otherwise, facial oils from natural skin care lines are usually a safe bet.

What is the difference between perfumery and aromatherapy?

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When I was working as a manger, I got the chance to visit an essential oils factory in Germany. It's always interesting to see how a factory is run and set up. I learned a lot from this experience. The guide explained to us, that only natural essential oils have therapeutic properties. Everything else, fragrance oils of synthetic nature do not. The body can recognize a natural scent and "metabolite" it, disposing it where it is not needed. But a synthetic one? Though it might smell just like what it supposed to, the body does not recognize it, not knowing what to do with it, it stores it up, surrounding it with fat tissue to keep these toxins from circulating in the body.

This is why I tell people to avoid synthetic fragrances whenever possible. Another reason is, you'd be missing out on the benefits of a natural fragrance! A natural fragrance is mostly made up of essential oils and absolutes. Traditional perfumery is based on the use of essential oils, but not exclusively. This means, a natural perfume can have theraputic benefits, but not all of them do. While perfumery is closely linked to aromatherapy, they are distinctly difference from each other, in that they have different purposes. Perfumery being intended for the pleasure of scent, and aromatherapy for the healing benefits of essential oils.

Essential oils can benefit mind, body and spirit. So an essential oil can be very versatile in its use. Fir instance, lavender essential oil is very soothing, and calming, helping to relieve stress, but used topically, it can treat burns and wounds very effectively. Essential oils are very concentrated, so much so that a single drop of essential oil contains 40,000 molecules! That means that very little goes a long way. Just even inhaling it has an effect. If you wish to use essential oils topically, you must fist dilute it in a carrier oil, which is any plant-based oils, such as jojoba or sweet almond.

But I also want to make a note that cosmetic products, especially perfumes, do not have to list the components of its fragrance. So it is lumped in as just being identified as "fragrance" or "parfum". This is not necessarily a problem, but it does get confusing to the consumer who is less aware of what this all means. A natural cosmetic product can list its essential oil components as fragrance. Sometimes they may identify it as being from essential oils. But sometimes not. A lot of people assume that when they see the word "fragrance" on the ingredients list, that it means it is from "fragrance oil" (which is synthetic). Not is not the case at a;ll. The word fragrances also covers any essential oils and anything else that gives off a scent, or fragrance additives. Very confusing. This is why it's so important to know about the standards of the brand you buy from. Often times, a company will declare what they feel is acceptable to use in fragrancing their products. 

Naturally Affordable Foundation

Lavera Natural Liquid Foundation, £11.90,  Image via 

So because the challenge was to find natural make up products for $20 US / £12 or less, I thought I might not find anything in the foundation category. Foundations are usually more expensive than other products, like lipstick and eye shadow. I really thought I might not find anything, but volia! Lavera make foundation for less than £12! THey have two kinds. Impressive! Lavera Natural Liquid Foundation and Lavera 2-in1 Compact Foundation. Take your pick.

Satin Matte Foundation Beige, $22.95, Image via

The second runner-up, it did not fit the budget, but very close! I thought I would mention it anyways. Alima Pre makes mineral powder foundations for $22.95. Pretty reasonable compared to everything else I've seen on the market.